Vatican Two

For some reason today, this blog isn't letting me insert text between the photos, and it takes too long to reload them to try again. Bear with me.

Today was a very interesting day at the Vatican. I read about tours that are offered to the Necropolis, or 'Scavi', and was able to get a ticket. These tours are only offered to 250 people per day, compared to the 17,000 who regularly visit St Peter's and the Vatican Museum. The first photo is the Office of Excavations, Ufficio Scavi.

You can't take pictures in 2 areas of the Vatican - the Necropolis, as it is a sacred site, and the Sistene Chapel, as the Vatican couldn't afford the cleaning in the '80s and a Japanese group paid the $2 billion to have it cleaned in exchange for a copyright in perpetuity on the images inside. Fair enough.

The Necropolis is an archaeological site that was excavated in the '40s and '50s, and consists of some of the tombs dating back to before the first century CE. They are located 2 levels below the Basilica, which was street level during that time. The Romans would not bury their dead within the City so created this Necropolis. When Constantine had the first church built on that site in the third century CE, it was built on top of the Necropolis - including the tomb of St Peter.

This tour was an architectural tour, not a religous one, which surprised me. The docent, who works for the Vatican Museum, explained that St Peter's tomb had been unmarked but known to Christians, who were still persecuted before Constantine. Tombs in the Necropolis first contained mostly pagan symbols, but as time passed, more and more Christian symbols began to be included, and these increased in numbers the closer one got to the tomb identified as St Peter's. It was an unmarked but long venerated site.

For several reasons, archaeologists are certain that this is the tomb of St Peter. The altar of all churches that have been on this site are directly above it. They are also convinced that the bones are those of St Peter. One of the reasons cited is that the feet are missing, and it is known that St Peter was crucified upside down. It was common to cut people from the cross after crucifiction, so cutting the feet off is consistent with that.

Also now accepted by archaeologists and the church is that the remains of St Peter were removed from his tomb in the third century when the first church was built and hidden in a wall directly behind the tomb.

The tour went through a section of the Necropolis, which included the original streets now 2 floors below ground. Various Necropoli could be viewed, including amazing outside detail, frescoes, marble tombs and other artifacts. The 'steets' are so narrow that you have to pass single file. It is stunningly intact after being buried for centuries.

The tomb of St Peter was not a Necropolis but a small cave. After identification, the bones were replaced in a plexiglass box and set beside the wall where they had been hidden. All this could be viewed.

I have to admit, this was a highlight of Rome.

The next 4 photos are examples of some of the amazing art that is just scattered through the Vatican, almost as afterthoughts.

The last set of photos were taken... climbing St Peter's dome. Because my legs and hips and knees and back aren't quite killing me. Yet. It was there. I had to climb it.

There is an elevator that mercifully takes you part way. You come out onto a roof and have some interesting views of the Piazza, then continue by stairs that are located between the inside dome and the outer dome. The first set brings you out onto a catwalk on the inside of the cupola, part way up, with incredible views of the Basilica and the art on the ceiling that is hard to appreciate from the ground. Then continue... 320 steps, the last on such a small circular staircase that they provide a rope for a handrail so that the crowd, all muttering "Why am I doing this?" don't plunge to a messy death. Check out the views.

That was pretty much it for me at the Vatican. Except as I was leaving, I realized that I had totally dodged their security on my visit. Everyone entering the Museum or Basilica are searched and have their bags scanned.

When you enter the Scavi, you have to present your email confirmation and identification. I was given my ticket without giving my ID, as was everyone else I saw obtaining their ticket. The tour ends in the Crypt, below the Basilica, and the exit takes you out. Knowing that, from my visit on Tuesday, and not wanting to line up for hours to get into the Basilica again, I went out the entrance, which got me right into St Peter's. I walked around for a half hour, lined up for the Cupola visit, then left. In total, I was there for 4 hours and was top to bottom and had never been through a security check. I figured it was something I should tell the security guys about, but couldn't get the attention of the first 2 I encountered, and the third guy coudn't speak english. The Swiss Guards wouldn't come over to talk to me and I couldn't get behind their barrier. So basically I breached every security rule at the Vatican and couldn't get arrested. Don't blame me is some clown blows it up!

That's the story of Vatican 2. And of course there was gelato. Enjoy the pics.

"The Devil Is A Zombie!" Says Vatican

Imagine my surprise! But yes, my able guide assured me yesterday during our tour of the Vatican Museum. The Devil, depicted in the lower right of the below photo as a snake, is in fact eating someone's brain! That must mean... the Devil is a Zombie! That's gonna make a hell of a movie! (No pun intended.)



And in such frame of mind, I tackled the Vatican.



The Pope, once elected, is a 'prisoner of the Vatican' as he cannot be alone anywhere... except every afternoon, when he is at the Vatican, he is driven to the woods at the back of the garden here, where he is let out to walk alone. What does the Pope do in the woods? Contrary to speculation, he thinks and prays. And, indeed, the Vatican Museum has lovely washrooms. Good to know.



And the gardens are lovely.

We were lucky during our tour to gain access to two areas that are normally closed - the Iconography room, with a sample below, and the Pope's garage, where various carriages (made in Britain, as are the Queen's) and cars are on display, including the vehicle in which JP2 was shot, and later incarnations of the Popemobile.



I don't know what this is. Well... actually... it is a very large pine cone. I don't know WHY it is.



The Museum also has a commemorative statue of Graham Chapman. "I have a vewwy gweat fwiend in Wome..."

And Julius Caesar.

Now this is interesting. The statue below has a fig leaf where the naughty bits used to be. The accepted story is that a Pope ran amok years ago and had them removed for reasons of propriety and that they were thrown in a box some where. This has become even more accepted since the wide success of the book and movie Angels and Demons. But...

...our guide, a PhD candidate in Art History says this isn't so, that they were removed by Vandals and Visigoths and so forth, so, and I quote "it's not like they were whacked off or put in a box." Well, I for one am glad they weren't whacked off.

A cool view of St Peter's from the back.

I don't care if they ARE Swiss. These are the Funniest Guards Ever. I wonder if they can make balloon sculptures of the Pope.

This is the altar at St Peter's, also known as The Temple of Wretched Excess.

The famous Egyptian obelisk in St Peter's piazza.

And the requisite picture of the Piazza, which is absolutely massive.

I'm going back tomorrow to visit the Necopolis, or Scavi, below the crypt. If the Pope doesn't read this first.

Ciao!

Rome In A Night

Even the hours of exploring yesterday couldn't discourage me from taking a nice long walk in Rome after dark. Rick Steves recommends a walk from Campo di Fiore to the Spanish Steps, passing several interesting sights on the way, so despite aching feet I set out.

I decided to walk to Campo di Fiore, which isn't on the map but is vaguely described in the book.

After hoofing past the Colossem and Forum again, and working my way south-east, I never found it. It must exist in another dimension.

Fortunately, I stumbled upon the second sight on the walk - Piazza Navona. It is brilliant!



The Piazza is huge, ringed with restaurants and cafes and boasts two fabulous fountains and what has to be a permanent crowd. I spent some time exploring, had some pizza and continued on toward the Pantheon.

Not the easiest place to find at night, but worth the hunt, especially for the sight of a full moon directly overhead.



It isn't open at night, so I made plans to return during the day. Next stop - the Trevi Fountain.



Again, the size of the fountain, and the crowd, was a bit of a surprise. Photos don't seem to do it justice.

The last stop was the Spanish Steps. Beautifully lit and again crowded at 11:30, I climbed to the top, delighted to find the Metro there so that I could get back to the hotel and sleep.



Who would close a Metro at 11:30 in a city as big as Rome? Nothing for it at that point except to walk. My evening walk turned into a 4-hour marathon but it was wonderful weather and a great way to spend an evening in Rome.

And... what happens in the Gelateria STAYS in the Gelateria!

My Life In Ruins

Today was hot and sunny, and I spent all of it on my feet and trying not to think of Bugs Bunny cartoons, especially the ones with Gladiators and chariot races...



The Colosseum does not disappoint. The tour guide was an Italian who thinks he is Roberto Benini and who made it clear that the Greeks were mere wannabees, but he was very good. Unless you are Greek.



Despite the damage from that earthquake hundreds of years ago, you can still imagine the noise and energy of the crowd of 70,000. They will soon be opening the area below ground for tours but I was a bit too early for that. You can still see the grooves on the top of those stones where the pulleys lifted the 32 different elevators to bring animals, scenery or whatever to the stage.

The best view of the outside of the Colosseum was from Paletine Hill.

Cobblestones have never been my favourite things, but they have nothing on these old stones of the Via Sacra. From which we get the word 'sacroiliac' which you will break walking on the damn things.

But Gelato cures all (except cellulite) and the limone was amazing - not an ice, but an ice cream. Yowzah! It kills me to say it, but... La Casa Gelato, you have been outclassed!

I hobbled back to my lair after 8 hours for a much-needed siesta, and will likely head out for a walk tonight.

NOTE: my Primus email is not working today. This morning I couldn't connect at all, and this afternoon I was able to see my Inbox but couldn't open anything. If it continues tomorrow, I'll consider opening a Gmail account or something. And still no luck with the SIM card as nobody in this area sells them. I'll check around when I get futher afield.

Ciao!!!

A Roma

You have to love a city that actually wants you to be there - good signage, easy transit, helpful people. (The baggage handlers, however, appear to be brought in from France.)

It was a pretty uneventful trip in, only getting mildly lost twice. But after the standard flight / airport connector train / subway, it was pretty striking to leave the subway and immediately see the Colosseum.

I passed so many interesting sights on my way to the hotel, but couldn't stop to fully enjoy them, such as an old, working water fountain, and the Palatine Hill excavation (which isn't technically on the way to the hotel, see above re: lost). This is going to be an amazing visit.

The B&B is in a great location (thanks, Deb). It has a window that opens, which is great for cooling things down, and it will be cool for the rest of my stay because I can't figure out how to close it. There is a tiny shower (how do these women shave their legs?) and I'll have fun with the bidet. There is a very cool turret at the end of the street which I will have to check out. And there are great litle stores and restaurants very close by. I did as much exploring as I could given the lack of sleep last night, and the legs are holding up well.

There's a wifi hotspot somewhere - likely the hotel across the street - so I'm on line, but no luck yet with the phone. There was a kiosk at the airport selling SIM cards, but they wanted 240 euros for them (NOT kidding) as opposed to the 5 pounds I've been paying in the UK. Everything is closed today - Sunday - so I'll try somewhere else tomorrow.

I met a couple from Scarborough and another from Syracuse at supper, and we compared notes. There may be fireworks over the Colosseum tonight, but I'm not sure I can stay awake that long... Oh, yeah. They have Gelato here. Go figure!

The camera gizmo is working (thanks Tommy) so here are the first pictures. Now I'm off for some sack time.

Ciao!