Next Stop - The Renaissance

***This is the third time I've tried to post this. I have a lousy connection and when I try to post, the text gets eaten, I forgot what I wrote, the new text is lame, and then it happens again. Grrrrr.

It was hard leaving Manarola and the Cinque Terra on Saturday. The area is gorgeous and I would have liked to have hiked between the towns.

On Friday, the sun had come out and I took a walk down by the harbour and along some of the trails. As I spent some time watching the ocean, 2 men came to shore in a boat. I watched them for about 10 minutes, and learned how they get the boats out of the water and onto land 30 feet up.




















I woke up yesterday to the sound of a machine working nearby. I took an apple out onto the balcony for breakfast, and watched these guys directly below crushing grapes while I ate. They must have had 30 or 40 crates. Wine season is underway in the Cinque Terre!




















The trip into Florence was a bit rough. First there was the schlepping of bags from my aerie, then 2 train connections to get here. There were a lot of steps and my leg is in pretty rough shape, so I've not explored much yet.

Now, Florence has different areas, like most cities. Like the leather district, the University district, etc. Apparently I am staying in the gelato district. There are no less than 6 gelaterias in the block.

I stopped across the street after settling in, and the 3 guys manning the gelato counter were having a fight about who was more handsome, and they dragged me into it. I went with Louie, and apparently that doesn't happen often. I have won his heart, and his scooping hand. Louie served up a gelato that would sink a ship.




















Unfortunately, this is the first gelato I have had that I didn't like. They make it with bits in it. I ordered a reliable lemon / strawberry mix, and the bits of lemon were really bitter, and the strawberry didn't have any flavour even with the bits. So I waited until I was out of sight of Louie and tossed it in the trash. Such is love in Florence.

The bus from the train dropped me off on the other side of the Ponte Vecchia, and my hotel is about a bridge-length away on this side. Very close to the Ufizzi and many other good sights. It's a great location, but I don't know what is holding the Ponte Vecchio up - it looks like it will collapse into the Arno any minute.




















I went to the Uffizi and got my ticket for this morning, then went to the Piazza Signoria behind it. There is an incredible amount of great sculpture there, including a copy of the David where it originally stood (now should I pay to see it in the Accademia?). I returned later to a trattoria there for dinner, and wanted to ask these guys to put something on while I ate.






























































































The Duomo isn't far from here, and it's massive. It is hard to photograph, because other buildings are so close.




















Even walking nearby, you can always see some of the Duomo.

























Even just walking around, there are interesting details in the street. For example, this iron window cage...

























The grill work is being supported on both sides at the front by these turtles.




















Are there a lot of scooters in Florence? Does the Pope...actually, I think we've established that he doesn't. Regardless, there are a lot of scooters in Florence.





















Now, tragedy plus time equals comedy, and this happened yesterday, so I guess I can laugh at this now.




















Ben and Jerry's... in Florence!!!!!!

Hahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!!!!!!!!

What were they thinking?

They were likely thinking that Americans would flock to the place. And they do.

Joke's on me.

Bidet: A Place to Dry Your Umbrella

I finished my trip yesterday by boat from Vernazza to Manarola, and the area where the boats dock is very rugged - rocky with beautiful clear green water. There were some stone benches and I sat and watched the sea for some time, hypnotized by the water swelling, surging, breaking on the rocks then ebbing away in a swirl of foam. But that somehow started to feel dirty, so I walked back up to the town...




















... through a crevice of rock.

























Exhausted, I returned to my room and slept for 9 hours. It rained during the night, and this morning my lovely view was reduced the this...




















The rain had slowed to a light drizzle. The trails were mostly closed again, so I decided to visit a few of the towns by train. I had washed some clothes out 2 days ago and they still weren't dry, so I put them in my pack, intending to throw them in a dryer when I found a laundomat.

Off to Riomaggiore, the town to the south, which I had walked to on Wednesday, but hadn't really explored.

There isn't much to see where the train lets you off, except a cluster of houses on a hill. I started walking (up, of course). It was quite a walk.

At least someone was enjoying the weather (and nibbling the electrical line, in case anyone is wondering why they keep losing power).




















Now the lower terraces are for gardens for the locals, and I sense that they are very competitve and protective. One of the hints was their use of scarecrows.




















It will also likely keep small children from eating the tomatoes.

Every one of these towns has a stream that flows through it, down to the sea. This one was very pretty, even in the rain.

























Oh, and BOB, about those farmers. It IS a contest, and you are losing!

























The gardens around here are full of lemon trees, and their local lemoncillo is everywhere. I have a bottle tucked aside, along with a packet of tea bags, in case the tempest does develop, so I can huddle under the blankets and drink myself warm.

This walk was pretty steep, and I had to take this picture. Note that their sidewalk is a few feet above the street. Notice the 2 mailboxes. Then notice the stairs. There are 2 flights there. This is how these people get their mail. I'd like to know their stats on knee replacements. And postal strikes.

























After 20 minutes of climbing, I reached a place with a good view back to the rail station.




















...and finally found the town.




















It was at this point that I learned of the tunnel to the train station. It is about 200 metres long, and would have saved the 20 minute hike (which I quite enjoyed.) I wonder if I can take that Lemoncillo and drink myself smart?

Next, I was off to Vernazza, where I had spotted a laundry yesterday. But when I learned it costs 6 euros for a dryer, I decided to come back and hang my things on the line, since the sun was coming back out. But I didn't leave Vernazza before stocking up on some more olive focaccia for breakfast tomorrow... and encountering my first "hole in the floor" toilet. I'd love to regale you with the details of that choice little encounter, but I think Ruby may have found this blog by now, and the details might do her in.

So it's turning into a nice day here. I'm going to go enjoy it before packing and leaving tomorrow morning for Florence. But I really hope I have the chance to
come back here real soon.

For those keeping in touch - thanks for the emails.

Starry, Starry Night

Yesterday was glorious, and the sunset was postcard perfect.




















After finishing the blog, I went to a local restaurant for supper, and had the best Penne all Arrabiata that I have ever had. I spent the whole meal trying to figure out how to make it at home.

Something I hadn't seen for a long time - stars! I sat on my little balcony for a long time last night just looking at the stars and watching the lights of a few boats crossing my line of vision. I spent some time planning what to do today, and went to bed and had a great 9-hour sleep.

And woke up to grey skies and light rain. Crud.

I adjusted my plans and decided to take the boat up to Motrerosso al Mare, the 5th or northernmost town, and made my way down to the harbour in time to see this...




















This is known as Missing the Boat. Changing plans quickly, I grabbed a train instead, by which time the storm was blowing off to the north, the rain was tapering off and the sun was nearly out.

The local trains here are a great deal, costing less than $2 for 6 hours use in any direction. The towns are only a few minutes apart, so it doesn't take long to get anywhere.

These towns are all built on rock though, so there are a lot of tunnels. Long tunnels. Kinda makes up for the lack to domes and towers...





















Unfortunately, like the storm, I was also blowing off to the north and I was into another storm when I got to Monterosso. It was light enough that walking around wasn't a problem, but it was clear that hiking the trails was out. I feel that I've really let down my cheerleader, Trish, but I'll simply have to come back. Monterosso is beautiful!

























Now, this guy was fishing from the pier in Monterosso. I swear that he was using the longest fishsing pole I have ever seen, easily 25 feet. He was gathering quite a crowd, as you would expect of a man with a 25 foot pole.

I was able to get the boat down to Vernazza, the next town south. A quick 10-minute ride, plus the hour wait, as I just missed the boat - again.

Eventually arrived in Vernazza, it is also very pretty, and somewhere I would consider staying next time. A toss up between Manarola and Vernazza actually.








































It was long past lunch time in Vernazza, and I found this little place selling focaccia. This one was mmmmMMMmmmmmm!

























You can't go far on focaccia though. Fortunately I found... well... you know.

























Cocao (rick, dark chocolate) and nocciola (hazelnut) nom nom nom!

In Cinque Terre, getting a friend to help you move will likely cost a lot more than a case of beer.

Am gearing up for the anticipated "Tempest" tomorrow. Trying to remember if that play was a comedy or a tragedy. Or both. Fortunately I have a supply of focaccia!

Bye!

Stairway to Heaven

Landed in Cinque Terre this afternoon, and it is so different from where I have been for the last 5 days. Instead of thousand year old hill towns (and a fair bit of rain), I have the sea, cloudless blue skies and a warm breeze.

The train from Siena to Manarola was quite easy, considering I had to change trains 3 times. I met the rental agent soon after I arrived and she showed me to my room. First, you walk uphill forever. Then, when you run out of hill, you climb 78 steps, to this...




















Then you open the window and look at the view...




















Yeah. That's pretty hard to take.

Manarola is the 2nd of 5 hill towns (going from south to north) on a small, high section of coast in the Mediterranian - I think this part is called the Ligurian Sea. Put simply, there is up and more up.




















They terraced the hills into these slim plots of land where they grow grapes and make ridiculously expensive wine.

























A small creek flows the length of town into the sea.

There are trails that link all 5 towns, but the one between Manarola and the town to the north is closed today due to risk of mud slides from the recent rain.

There were people swimming in the little protected pool at the shore.

I walked the easy trail to Riomaggiore and back this afternoon, and it was a beautiful walk.

This is one of the staircases in town. It goes waaaay up. Children here have legs like tree trunks.

You can see my room here. Above Tratorria Billy, and above the pink building it is located in, is a white building. One the 3rd floor from the top, 1 pair of shutters is open - that's me!

I've really been surprised by the amount of grafitti here. Not only the buildings, but this plant has been damaged. People have carved their names in the leaves and they've written them in marker too. The plant is 6 feet tall and will likey die. Idiots.

I just uploaded the pictues while sitting on a roof watching the sun set over the ocean. Now it's time for a yummy dinner. I'm going to do as much as I can tomorrow because we are still expecting really bad weather on Friday, so that may be a day in - not a totally bad thing.

Oh, yeah, they have gelato here! Yay!

Bye!