Friday, October 1, 2010

Bidet: A Place to Dry Your Umbrella

I finished my trip yesterday by boat from Vernazza to Manarola, and the area where the boats dock is very rugged - rocky with beautiful clear green water. There were some stone benches and I sat and watched the sea for some time, hypnotized by the water swelling, surging, breaking on the rocks then ebbing away in a swirl of foam. But that somehow started to feel dirty, so I walked back up to the town...




















... through a crevice of rock.

























Exhausted, I returned to my room and slept for 9 hours. It rained during the night, and this morning my lovely view was reduced the this...




















The rain had slowed to a light drizzle. The trails were mostly closed again, so I decided to visit a few of the towns by train. I had washed some clothes out 2 days ago and they still weren't dry, so I put them in my pack, intending to throw them in a dryer when I found a laundomat.

Off to Riomaggiore, the town to the south, which I had walked to on Wednesday, but hadn't really explored.

There isn't much to see where the train lets you off, except a cluster of houses on a hill. I started walking (up, of course). It was quite a walk.

At least someone was enjoying the weather (and nibbling the electrical line, in case anyone is wondering why they keep losing power).




















Now the lower terraces are for gardens for the locals, and I sense that they are very competitve and protective. One of the hints was their use of scarecrows.




















It will also likely keep small children from eating the tomatoes.

Every one of these towns has a stream that flows through it, down to the sea. This one was very pretty, even in the rain.

























Oh, and BOB, about those farmers. It IS a contest, and you are losing!

























The gardens around here are full of lemon trees, and their local lemoncillo is everywhere. I have a bottle tucked aside, along with a packet of tea bags, in case the tempest does develop, so I can huddle under the blankets and drink myself warm.

This walk was pretty steep, and I had to take this picture. Note that their sidewalk is a few feet above the street. Notice the 2 mailboxes. Then notice the stairs. There are 2 flights there. This is how these people get their mail. I'd like to know their stats on knee replacements. And postal strikes.

























After 20 minutes of climbing, I reached a place with a good view back to the rail station.




















...and finally found the town.




















It was at this point that I learned of the tunnel to the train station. It is about 200 metres long, and would have saved the 20 minute hike (which I quite enjoyed.) I wonder if I can take that Lemoncillo and drink myself smart?

Next, I was off to Vernazza, where I had spotted a laundry yesterday. But when I learned it costs 6 euros for a dryer, I decided to come back and hang my things on the line, since the sun was coming back out. But I didn't leave Vernazza before stocking up on some more olive focaccia for breakfast tomorrow... and encountering my first "hole in the floor" toilet. I'd love to regale you with the details of that choice little encounter, but I think Ruby may have found this blog by now, and the details might do her in.

So it's turning into a nice day here. I'm going to go enjoy it before packing and leaving tomorrow morning for Florence. But I really hope I have the chance to
come back here real soon.

For those keeping in touch - thanks for the emails.

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